Part-6 Problem Solving. How To Be A Gardener? Uses Of Garden Tools.

Part-6 Problem Solving. How To Be A Gardener? Uses Of Garden Tools.

PROBLEM SOLVING  
 1.Pets And Disease
   1.Common Pests
   2.Common Diseases
   3.Problems Caused 
     by Growing Conditions
 2.Weeds
  1.Annual Weeds
  2.Perrenial Weeds
  3.The Tools For The Job
  4.Preventing Weeds 

1. Pests And Diseases | Problem Solving

It is not difficult to see if the plant is a little off-colour. But, trying to understand what the problem is causing is another matter. Sometimes it’s obvious – there’s still a snail away munching, but other times it’s not so clear. By identifying the symptoms it is often easier to identify the problem. Once you get a handle on the offender, you can take action.

Find out that the plants include slugs and are less susceptible to snails and honey fungus.The absence of leaves in your garden, slugs and snails can be the result of nocturnal noshing.

1. Common Pests

WhiteFly, BlackFly, GreenFly, Slugs, Snails, Mice, Cuckoo Spit, Vine Weevil, caterpillars, Ants, Red Spider Mite, Scale Insects.

2. Common Diseases

BlackSpot, Brown Rat, Coral Spot, Grey Mould, Honey Fungus, Powdery Mildew, Rust.

3. Problem Caused By Growing Conditions

1. Frost Damage

Plants Affected: New growth.

Symptoms: Young stems and soak leaves and turn black.

Prevention / Control: If frost is predicted, decorate a plant in different levels of horticultural fleece or newspaper. Do not leave the plant until the last frost. In most areas, you are safe for a plant in late May or early June.

2. Wind Damage

Plants Affected: New growth and delicate plants, such as Japanese maples.

Symptoms: Like ice damage.

Prevention / Control: Make shelter by planting a windbreak or planting a hedge.

3.Wilting

Plants Affected: All Plants.

Symptoms: Drooping leaves. Confusingly this can be because of either a lack of water or too much water.

Prevention / Control: Check the cause and allow either to apply water or too dry the plants.

2. Weeds | Problem Solving

Grass definition is ‘any plant growing in the wrong place’. This means that a small salty slurry seed from a large sycamore tree may also cover some aggressive ‘garden’ plants, such as ice-in-summer, Cerastium tomentosum, which will take rock garden if not preoccupied.

Weeds are rotten thugs. They compete with water, light and nutritious, more polite, well-grounded plants. There are two basic types of grass, annual and perennials, each of which has its own plan to attack.

1. Annual Weeds

The purpose of annual weeds is to grow rapidly and set seed as quickly as possible. They grow from seeds on any recent farming land. Seeds can live in the soil for years, waiting to grow in full state. They produce at lower temperatures than most garden plants, they start their head with rivals!

Controlling annual weeds is relatively easy:

     • This trick is to identify them in the planting phase so that you can finally get it without removing the flower or vegetable seedlings.

     • Most swirls or pulls easily even when they reach a good size. Place them on your heap, until they are seed-heads.

2. Perennial Weeds

Perennial weeds are a problem because they can live for many years. They live by storing food in their roots in winter. These roots make them harder to get rid of annual weeds. Some are difficult to extract and others spread underground. If you drop the smallest piece of root in the soil, when you dig it out, you will get a whole new plant.

To Control:

• Remove the perennial weeds as soon as you see them. As long as you do not give them leaves, roots will use their energy stores and they will eventually die. Do not ever turn over the soil with perennial weeds because it’s a brilliant way of preaching! Eat out every little bit as always, because they will overrun again and often with enthusiasm twice.

• If you do not mind using chemicals, treat them with glyphosate-containing weedkiller.

• Never put the head or the head of the cereal weeds on the Compost Mugs.

3. The Tools For The Job

1. Border Fork

Just like half a size like excavator thorns, it is best to dig a large number of weeds and where there is plenty of space between plants.

2. Hand Fork

Perfect for weeds in nearby plants, such as the Perennials.

3. Old Dinner Fork

A solution for striped slabs and small weeds, such as alpines.

4. Dutch Hoe

Excellent for scandal among rows of vegetables. Use weed seeds regularly to capture when they are younger.

5. Chop Hoe

Useful for removing large weeds.

4. Preventing Weeds

Preventing weeds from reaching the first place can save you a lot of work.

1. Paths And Paving

If you do not mind using a weedkiller, the path weedkiller will prevent weeds coming between cracks and pebbles for several weeks at a time. Otherwise, fill the crack with the cement, or hand out using the old kitchen fork.

2. Mulching

Better handling of beds in bedding and borders, from 5cm to 10cm (2in to 4in) deep spread of manure or good grass manure on open clay. It also reduces water loss by evaporation and helps improve soil conditions!On the bush boundary, grit or molasses will last longer than manure or fertilizer.

3. Weed Proof Membranes

Put down the green grass like pebbles or bark. The best type of polypropylene is embedded because it runs on water. For the plant, just cut the fabric.

4. Root Proof Barriers

A vertical obstacle will stop attacking aggressive roots from the next door. 30 cm (1 FT) digging deep and burying the obstacle. The best materials to use are the wet-proof course (DPC), which is available from all builders’ merchants.

5. Using WeedKillers

To save time and hard work, answer for anyone who does not mind using blood.

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure that you are using a proper weedkiller for a job.

• Keep the weedkiller of plants that you want to keep.

• According to the instructions on fading/packaging weedkiller thin and apply fine rose on water (sprinkler head), which you can use the only weedkiller to weed.

• Do not apply on stormy days because weedkillers can target on other plants.

• The most effective time to apply weeds is when weeds are leafy and actively growing, mid-spring is ideal in early summer.

• Keep Wadkillers at safe places beyond the reach of children and pets. When they are vacant, dispose of them carefully. Repeat applications may be required so that all boats do not die.

6. Tackling An Overgrown Path

If you want to remove the niggard garden powders from the nineties, here’s how: 

• 10 cm from the ground level (4 inches), recite everything and dispose of them.

• Dig to the area and remove all the roots. Do not rent the rotavator because these will exchange and make the roots of perennial weeds far and wide, which will make the problem of grass worse.

• If you do not fancy excavation, wait until you see the new weed control and apply the glyphosate weedkiller.

• Alternatively, let’s cover the ground with black plastic or old carpet sheets. Emerging weed buds will not get any light and will not starve. It will take a few years to 100 percent effective.

Ever imagined your own delicious, juicy fruit and vegetables grown? Even if space is limited, I will tell you more in the next module – ‘The Productive garden‘.